Many people choose James Joyce's flagship novel as their guide to Ireland's capital. We invite you to follow his hero
One day in the life of the protagonist of the great novel by James Joyce “Ulysses” Leopold Bloom, a resident of Dublin, during which he moves from one place in the city to another, symbolizes a whole life. Dublin in the novel is not just a city, but a symbol of the world.
As readers of Ulysses will remember, in the morning Bloom leaves his house at 7 Eccles Street, goes to the cemetery for his friend's funeral, then to the library, later ends up in a maternity hospital, then in a brothel, and finally in the company of Stephen Dedalus back home.
TRADITION
Dublin was founded in 988, and despite the fact that the Old City is quite small, there is something to see in it.
However, it so happened that the main tourist route in Dublin today is associated with Bloom's Day (or Bloomsday), which, according to the novel, takes place annually on June 16th.
It is on this day that crowds of tourists flock to Dublin from all over the world. They go in a string from signpost to signpost, which are placed along Bloom's entire route.
But to avoid the hustle and bustle, it is better to come to Dublin on any other day and slowly walk through the places that have become history.
1. James Joyce Tower
A little away from the city center, along the south road, is the James Joyce Tower. This is where the events of the first episode of “Ulysses” unfold. The tower was built in 1804 to protect against the invasion of Napoleon. Since the 1900s, it began to be rented out, and its first tenants were a friend of the writer Oliver Gogarty and James Joyce himself. However, Joyce—due to a quarrel with Oliver—did not live here for long.
The Tower now houses an exhibition dedicated to Joyce, and one of its rooms looks exactly like the one described in Ulysses.
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- The water of life from the Emerald Isle: the history of Ireland's main drink
2. Glasnevin Cemetery
Glasnevin Cemetery, where Leopold Bloom comes some time after leaving the house, is currently a cemetery-museum. It was opened in 1832 for the burial of Catholics, who were oppressed at that time by the Protestants. Now it is the largest cemetery in Ireland. It is located on Finglas Road. There is a boutique on the territory of the cemetery where you can buy souvenirs and books.
3. Pub Davy Byrne's
At Davy Byrne's, where Bloom used to snack, you can order a cheese and mustard sandwich and some wine, or something more solid, like a traditional Irish lamb stew with onions and carrots for 12.95 euros. By the way, James Joyce and the owner of the pub, Davey Byrne, were personally acquainted. The pub is located at 21 Duke Street.
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- Pub Life: Talking about Ireland with a 6 Pint Native Dubliner
4. National Library of Ireland
After lunch, let's look into the library where Bloom visited. The National Library of Ireland was founded in 1877 and has a huge collection of books and documents. The appearance of the building and its majestic interiors are worth seeing in themselves. The library is located on Kildare Street.
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5. Old City Streets and Dublin Castle
A little later, you can walk along the streets of the city where the heroes of Ulysses have been, these are Gardiner Street, Grafton Street, Fleet Street, Dam Street, Wicklow Street.
What is worth paying attention to in a series of numerous streets? First of all – to Dublin Castle. It was built in 1204 by King John as a defensive structure, but a little later it became a British royal residence for a long time. In 1922, after the signing of the Anglo-Irish Treaty, the castle was solemnly handed over to the first government of Ireland, headed by Michael Collins. Nowadays, the castle is open to tourists, and during the Irish presidency of the EU, meetings of the European Council were held here. The castle is located in the heart of Dublin on the south bank of the River Liffey.
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6. Phoenix Park
After visiting the castle, you should go to Phoenix Park and enjoy communication with nature. Although this vast park is given attention in another book by James Joyce, Finnegans Wake, it is also part of the city, for which the author, by his own admission, wrote such an accurate description in Ulysses that if Dublin were to suddenly disappear from the face of land, it could be restored from this book. The park is open around the clock. Entrance is free.
See also
- How the homeland begins: how St. Patrick's Day is celebrated in Ireland
7. Embankment Ormond
Late in the evening, Bloom returns home to 7 Eccles Street and falls asleep next to his unfaithful wife. Unfortunately, the house where the protagonist of Ulysses allegedly lived was demolished long ago, so after such a route you can afford to relax and go to the Morrison Hotel, which is located on the Ormond embankment, where the Ormond Hotel mentioned in the novel was previously located. A double room will cost from 150 euros per night.
ASSEMBLY POINT
If you find the itinerary difficult or if you think you need a guide, James Joyce Center Dublin will be happy to help.
Peek into the center anyway not prevent. Although Joyce himself never lived in this house, Professor Maginni, the owner of the building in the past, is also mentioned in several episodes of Ulysses.
Walking around the house, you can see portraits of loved ones who surrounded the great writer, in particular his parents. By the way, the Joyces lived in a house that looked very much like this one.
The museum also contains the little that remains of Leopold Bloom's dwelling – the plate “Eccles Street, 7”. A ticket for one visitor will cost 5 euros.
Material published on April 2, 2014, partially updated in July 2023